Starting Seeds Indoors

Well we’ve made it through the never-ending month of January, FINALLY! February is exciting because even though it feels like Spring is still an intolerable amount of time away, it really is just around the corner, and I can get started on some seeds for my 2019 gardens! With some seed starter mix, recycled containers, and an easy grow light setup, you can get a jump on yours too!

I start planning out my gardens for the following season starting in November. I have varieties that I consider reliable and consistent which I plant every year, but its always fun to find some new ones to try and see if they make it into the regular rotation!

Here in growing Zone 4, there are some seeds that can be directly sown into the ground in the spring, but there are many that need to be started indoors since our growing season is limited. Our average last frost date is mid-May, depending on the year. Different plants will have suggestions as far as when to start their seeds in relation to the last average frost date – anywhere from 4-12 weeks prior.

Different seeds have different needs. Some need light to germinate, others need darkness. Some need the soil to be warm, others need cooler temperatures. Some need to lay on top of the soil, others need to be buried a certain amount. Some larger seeds may need an overnight soak in water. Some may germinate in as little as just a few days, others can take weeks. Usually all of this information can be found on the seed packet, and if not, a quick search online can usually get you the answer.

Once you’ve got your seeds, you’ll need a few other supplies…

I like using a seed starting mix instead of regular potting soil. The mix is lighter and allows for good root development. This is my personal preference as it works well for me.

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Place the seed starter medium into a bowl and add water BEFORE you place it into your containers and plant your seeds. The medium does not soak up water well, especially if it is dry out of the bag. Work it with your hands so the water can be absorbed. It doesn’t have to be soaking wet, but you want it thoroughly moist.

Next you’ll need some containers. I like to use small trays to plant my seeds in, and once they’ve germinated and grown a couple of sets of true leaves (we’ll talk about that in future posts as they grow) I’ll transplant them into 4-packs or something similar.

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Now you’re ready to plant the seeds! Seeds come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and the very small ones can be a challenge! Some companies will coat very small seeds in a dis-solvable coating so you can actually see them and handle them more easily. However sometimes they literally look like dust (begonias, for example) and you just need to do your best to spread them evenly in your tray.

Also remember to label your trays! I find it easiest to just use some masking tape and a marker to write the name. For the varieties I am able to actually count how many seeds I am planting, I like to write the number on the label as well to keep track of my germination rate.

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Once they are planted, I like to use a spray bottle to “water them in”. The water flow from the spout of a watering can will be too forceful and will likely displace your seeds. The mist of a spray bottle works perfectly. I’ll continue to use a spray bottle for watering until the seeds have germinated and start getting a decent root system.

Now for the grow light system! Yes, you can use bright windowsills to start your seeds, but I guarantee with supplemental lighting and heat, your germination rates will increase substantially, and you’ll have healthier plants. You don’t need to spend a ridiculous amount of money on special setups. This is what I use:

• wire shelving
• shop light fixtures with chains – allows you to adjust the distance the lights are from the plants as they grow
• 6500k daylight bulbs, fluorescent or LED – I like fluorescent for starting seeds for the heat they put off while on – I use LED where the heat isn’t as beneficial
• old-school Christmas lights or a heat mat – I purchased a heat mat specifically for seed starting this year, but in years past I would run Christmas lights under the shelf and the slight amount of heat they put off would keep the soil slightly warmer than the air temperature
• mylar emergency blankets – they reflect the light back towards your plants and also keep heat in

Once the seed trays are under the lights, the soil needs to be kept evenly moist. To slow the speed of the soil drying out, its important to keep the trays covered to trap the moisture in. If the seeds need light, use a clear cover – plastic wrap, ziplock bag, clear plastic tray, etc. If the seeds need the warmth, but not the light, cover them with something the light can’t penetrate.

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I leave the lights on (with a timer to make things easy) for 12 hours a day. I’ll check on them 1-2 times daily, watering with the spray bottle to keep the soil moist.

Starting seeds is so rewarding! Once I get some germination, I’ll certainly post with some follow-up! Happy planting!