Orchids have always intimidated me a bit. Last February though I scored some Valentine’s day clearance phalaenopsis, also known as moth orchids, at Aldi and Home Depot. I figured at the price they were it would be a good opportunity to give them a go. Since then, I lost two who’s roots were in rough shape when I got them, and one I’ve been battling a bacterial or fungal issue but its still hanging on! Otherwise they’ve been great, and nearly a year later my first plants have grown new leaves and re-bloomed, which I feel is usually the daunting task with orchids. Turns out, the phalaenopsis have been pretty easy keepers! There’s tons of information out there about caring for phals, so I’m not going to go into crazy detail about them, I’ll just share what has worked for me thus far.
Lighting
I keep my phals in an East-facing window. This gives them morning light and avoids the more intense afternoon light. I keep them inside year-round, and during the summer months I have a sheer curtain I pull to filter the light a touch more.
Blooms
The blooms on phals are gorgeous and elegant, and they last for months! They are typically winter bloomers, but a lot of times once the blooms on the main stem (known as a “spike”) wilt, a new set may form from a lower node along the spike, which one of mine is doing now.
So once the flowers wilt and fall off, don’t cut back the spike unless it starts to brown and dry up, because you might cheat yourself out of more blooms! Among my five initial plants, I have had blooms on one or more almost constantly. This mini-phal below has been an over-achiever – it seems like it never stops!
As I said, they are known as winter bloomers, and that’s because they need a drop in temperature (60’s) and decrease in lighting to encourage them to “set a spike”. Mother Nature in Minnesota makes that pretty easy, taking care of both. Below is one of mine that is just starting a spike – this is also the one I’m struggling with infection on the leaves, she’s a work in progress.
Pots & Medium
From what I’ve learned doing some research, phalaenopsis like clear plastic pots with good drainage on the bottom and even on the sides, also allowing for good airflow. They’ve worked great for me.
Phals are epiphytic, which means they don’t grow in the ground in typical soil. In their natural environment they often grow on other plants, such as trees. “Orchid bark” is what I use as a potting medium, and it consists of bark, cocoa coir, charcoal, and perlite. Commercial mixes are available and make it easy.
Roots & Leaves
Phals absorb water and nutrients through their roots as most plants do, but they don’t quite look like typical roots of terrestrial plants. They’re thick and stiff, and like to be tight in their pot in a cultured setting. They usually turn from silver when dry to green when watered. Phals may also have aerial roots, which are roots that grow up and outside of the medium. This lady’s roots are pretty happy – they’re even growing out of the bottom and sides. Once she’s done blooming this spring I’ll probably repot her in a size up.
The leaves should be a nice rich green color, stiff and shiny. Sometimes I notice in the spring/summer months when they receive more light, some take on a slight purple or red hue. This is fine, but they’re probably on the edge of how much light they can take without getting burned. Its also natural for lower leaves to yellow and die back as new leaves are produced. One of mine is in the process of that now. I don’t force the leaf off until its pretty dry and crispy, and is removed easily.
Watering & Fertilizing
I water my phalaenopsis about every 1-2 weeks. Healthy, hydrated leaves should appear stiff, smooth, and shiny. If dull or leathery in appearance, they’re probably pretty thirsty. Being I use orchid bark, I feel it is difficult to over-water since the medium dries out quickly. If anything, I’m guilty of under-watering.
When I was at the MN State Fair this summer, the orchid show was in the horticulture building and I spoke to a gentleman who gave me some tips about watering. He waters his phals thoroughly so the water runs through the pot and fertilizes weakly with each watering. I’ve been doing the same and it’s been working for me.
This is the fertilizer I’ve been using (killer end-of-season greenhouse buy), I mix it in my watering can, water over a bowl to collect the water, and then recycle it back into my watering can for the next plant.
After watering, I let them drip for a bit on a boot tray before I put them back on their shelf. Always take care to not get water in the crown, or where the leaves come together at the top of the plant, as this can lead to rot issues. In their natural environment they usually grow at an angle so water doesn’t collect in the crown. If I accidentally get some water in there, I just blow at the center and enough is usually dislodged for it to not be an issue.
So that’s that! With Valentine’s day only a month away and clearance sales shortly after, it’ll be a good time to give a phal a try! I know I’ll be stalking the sales, haha!
